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World Gold Council
Discover gold's global impact on culture, art and science. Facts, myths and magic.
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Manufacturing Techniques > World Gold Council, all about gold
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Manufacturing TechniquesFor more in-depth information on Jewellery Technology and Manufacturing Techniques, please see Jewellery Technology in Utilisegold.com 
AlloysGold in its finest state (24 carat) is generally considered too soft and too malleable to use as jewellery. When craftsmen make jewellery, they mix fine gold with other metals (generally silver, copper or palladium) to create gold alloys. Here the different metals are carefully weighed before being melted down. 
StampingThis technique is a development of the ancient method of working gold, known as ‘repose’. The stamping technique involves engraving the complete design on a tool, and then making copies by stamping this tool onto a sheet of gold. 
Investment casting / lost waxThe investment casting technique is also known as the ‘lost wax’ method, and makes it possible to produce a large number of absolutely identical pieces of jewellery to a very high standard. Wax models are mounted on a trunk of wax to form the branches of a ‘wax tree’, before the tree is invested with a ceramic slurry to produce a refractory mould. The wax is melted out, the mould fired and the molten gold is cast into the cavity, under centrifugal force or vacuum. The casting technique is certainly the most widely used in jewellery manufacturing. 
Diamond-cut goldA design is cut on the surface by a precision machine with a diamond tool, which makes it possible to engrave using very detailed designs. 
Satin-finished goldA satin finish is achieved by rubbing the surface with a very fine scraper. It contrasts with a polished or brilliant surface. 
Engraved GoldIndividual designs are engraved manually with steel engraving tools. This technique allows a high degree of creativity from the craftsman. 
Lapidary WorkA disc covered in coarse material and revolving at very high speed is used to cut facets in the jewel's surface in much the same way as a similar instrument cuts precious stones. It allows the cutting of brilliant angles in a piece of jewellery. 
SolderingSoldering is still one of the most important arts the craftsman has to master, as it is used in the production of almost every piece of jewellery. It involves applying a gold alloy of the same type and colour as the parts which need to be assembled, but the alloy has a different composition with a lower fusion temperature. 
ChainsTo make chains, highly sophisticated machines cut gold wire and bend the sections to form links, which can then be assembled into chains at a very high rate (up to 6,000 links an hour). The links are then soldered in a belt furnace or, as is increasingly the case, can be welded on the machine itself by micro torch or laser as each link is formed. 
ElectroformingElectroforming is an emerging process for producing hollow, lightweight jewellery in 8-18 carat, as well as 24 carat, gold. Modern developments involve low temperature electroplating baths, which allow the use of removable wax models as mandrels and a reduced number of processing steps. Advanced computer programmes are used to maintain the tight control of the caratage. After electroforming, the wax model is removed to produce a hollow jewellery item. |
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